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Port

In the 18^th Century, people like Samuel Johnson could claim that port is for men (and brandy for heroes) while boasting about consuming three bottles in an evening, and complaining of gout. All of which sounds quaint, at best, today. Still, we’ll acknowledge port as the most noble of fortified wines. Port sipped thoughtfully with a piece of Stilton ends a meal nicely.

The European Union regulates the terms port and porto to mean fortified wines from Oporto, in Portugal. Countries outside the EU also use these terms, and the wines can be tasty, but we’ll accept that true port comes from Portugal.

To fortify port, producers add neutral grape spirit to their fermenting wine. This spirit is essentially brandy—distilled wine—but one with little character in itself. Its addition stops fermentation, and produces a sweet wine. The added alcohol also stabilizes the wine, giving it the legs for long aging.

Vintage port represents a mere 2% of port production. Producers do not declare a vintage every year. They choose vintages of high quality and regard the wine as a showcase. Producers want demand for vintage port to exceed production, so they rarely declare consecutive vintages, even when conditions point to that possibility.

Vintage port ages in barrel for up to 2 ½ years, then require at least 10 years of cellar time to reach early maturity. These wines throw prodigious sediment and require decanting.

Ruby and tawny port mark the major part of port production. Ruby means a sweeter, more youthful-seeming wine, with more pronounced fruit tones. Tawny indicates a wine showing more mellow qualities of age, complex and subtle. Neither ruby nor tawny throws sediment. They come in stoppered bottles, are affordable, and are fully ready to drink.

Some tawny ports bear legends such as 10-Year Old or 20 Year Old. These are not vintage wines but are blends of several vintages with an average age as labeled. They offer much of the delight of a well-aged vintage port, without the cost or lengthy wait. Decanting is unnecessary

Ports labeled Late Bottled Vintage are vintage wines that have been barrel-aged for five years or more. They are thus mellower than vintage ports of similar age, and require little or no further aging. They offer a good port experience while your vintage ports mature. Some producers filter and fine LBVs, so you need not decant, but other producers do not.

Though a product of Portugal, port is very much a British invention. When the heads of the port houses gather for their regular industry dinners, they do so in British style. After their meal, everyone leaves the great dining hall and repairs to another one. This second hall is set up exactly as the previous one, with each person sitting in the same location with the same setting as at the previous table. Here port is served and cigars lit. They go to such trouble presumably to prevent a smoky smelling dining hall, but the ceremonial quirkiness must offer its own starchy attraction.

Serve port with almonds, bold cheeses like Stilton, and chocolate desserts. Here are some representative ports offered at our stores

Cockburn Ruby $11.99/bottle
Ramos Tawny $15.99/bottle
Taylor Late-Bottle Vintage $21.99/bottle
Dow 10 Year Old $34.99/bottle
Graham 20 Year Old $59.99/bottle

Flavored Whiskys

Flavored whiskys seem perfect for autumn evenings. Served on ice some chill evening, or used as a mixer, they show a warm and delicious character. Try adding to recipes, such as cakes and fudge.

Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey $24.99/bottle
The honied tones and moderate sweetness merge seamlessly with the patented grip of Jack’s distinctive whisky. A perfect after dinner sip from the renowned distiller.
Jeremiah Weed’s Cherry Mash $18.99/bottle
Combining the piquancy of cherries and a slight sweetness with Kentucky bourbon, this is an enjoyable change of pace.
Spiced Box $19.99/bottle
Vanilla and other spices add an enticing aromatic dimension to fine Canadian whisky, highlighting rather than obscuring the whisky character.
Cabin Fever $21.99/bottle
Chill-filtered to bring out the maple flavors but not intense sweetness. Very smooth and enticing.

Another Pumpkin Experience

Fulton’s Harvest Cream $9.99
Creamy and mildly sweet, with the pleasant aroma of pumpkin pie, this limited edition liqueur is a delicious fall treat. Make sure you have some for Thanksgiving, and refrigerate the bottle after opening.