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Our formidable tasting of some 60, yes 60, wines occurred this past Saturday, as advertised. Such tastings please because they offer a chance to learn about some wines, even to enjoy them, and to talk about them, as well.

When confronted by tastings of this size, take a moment to scope the field of play. Figure out which wines you don’t want to miss. You may not have time to taste all the wines, or your palate may just wear out. It happens, even if you spit.

Spitting, by the way, can never be done gracefully. You look no more awkward than the next person.

To give each wine its best chance, taste white wines before reds, light wines before heavier ones, and dry wines before sweet ones. Reversing the order, you will find the second wine will taste thin or sour compared to the first one. Logistics may not always make this approach easy. If you must switch back and forth, rinsing your glass and your palate will help each wine show well.

So, among the stars of the tasting

• Burgans Albarino. ($14,99). From Galicia, the Celtic part of Spain, a purely delectable and charming white. The Albarino grape combined here the zest of Pinot gris, the exotic array of fruit tones such as Viognier offers, and a sunny freshness all its own. One of the most easily likeable wines around.
• Errazurriz. From Argentina, each of the Errasurriz bottlings come from single vineyards. The Sauvignon blanc ($14.99) showed a Graves-like flintiness and very pure sauvignon flavors. The Chardonnay ($17.99) balanced beautiful fruit with toasty oak in a way that hearkens to both Burgundy and California. The Carmenère ($17.99), a grape originally from Bordeaux, showed evidence of that provenance. Cedary fruit and soft tannins combined for a youthfully mature Bordeaux-like delight.
• Chateau Ste Michelle. Two strikingly fine wines from the winery’s Canoe Ridge estate. The Chardonnay ($24.99) displayed a deft Burgundian character. The char of the barrels imparted the familiar coffee-imbued toastiness typical of Meursault. Well-fruited with plenty of depth. Already delicious, the Cabernet sauvignon ($25.99) displayed deep fruit and a graceful structure.
• Alberdi Rioja Reserva ($24.99). Textbook Rioja. The aging, including barrel time, required of Reservas created a majestic balance with the aromatic fruit component. Complex, with vanilla tones and spice, and an attractive suppleness, too. Back in the day, Rioja could be oaked to death, but technology and technique here merged spicy flavors with Tempranillo’s supple depth.
• Paul Jaboulet. The vaunted Rhône name changed hands a few years ago but not their dedication to making top class wines. The Viognier ($11.99) tasted perfectly delightful with sparkling tropical fruit flavors and aromas. The Crozes-Hermitagen ($39.99) delivered full-scale syrah drama with plenty of depth. Classic powerhouse Rhône.
• Pinot Noir. This grape used to be hit or miss, but it seems like American producers have figured out which clones and techniques work for to the specific local challenges. Castle Rock ($9.99) from Willamette Valley in Oregon gave a priceworthy rendition of the grape with plenty of charm. The Cambria “Julia’s Vineyard” ($22.99) offered a pretty style of Pinot, very fragrant and bright. Talley’s Pinot noir ($34.99), from Edna Valley, showed deep, brooding fruit and power unusual for a Pinot of such gracefulness.
• Cline Cashmere ($15.99). In these economic days when 20 is the new 10, Cline Cellars’ entire lineup presented very good value for the money. People especially loved Cashmere, which is a yummy blend of Mourvedre, Grenache, and Syrah. Silky smooth with gobs of jammy fruit, it was just plain delicious.
• Ripasso. Ripasso is not a wine but a winemaking technique that produces full-bodied wines without harsh tannins or acidity. Winemakers dry the grapes before fermenting, thereby concentrating the sugars and softening the acids. Amarone is the most famous example. We poured several ripasso wines. Le Ragose Amarone ($55.99) was Valpolicella squared. Smooth and delicious, yet with a full 15% alcohol (or more!). It calls for roasts of any sort. Santi Valpolicella “Solano” (16.99) delivered a similarly powerful glassful, and, at the price, an awesome value. Nino Negri’s Valtellina Superiore “Sfursat” ($44.99) hails from Lombardy. Sfursat essentially means ripasso. Made from Nebbiolo, the wine showed the grape’s spectacular flower and fruit character, but without the stern tannins. It was a velvety powerhouse.

Other wines of note: Four Vines Biker Zinfandel, Flora Springs Trilogy, Lamberti Sparkling Rose, and Peter Lehmann Botrytis Semillon. One could go on.