Share this:

Wines made from the malbec grape have become increasingly popular, especially those from Argentina. Twenty years ago, one rarely saw malbec wines from anywhere. Thus does the wine industry change. Change can be good.

Malbec has long been established in France, mostly as a role player. The AOC of Cahors, southeast of Bordeaux, serves as a stronghold for French malbec. The full-bodied and tannic wines of this appellation require at least 70% malbec. Elsewhere in France, stock in malbec has dwindled.

As one of the allowed varieties in Bordeaux, malbec sees only minor action, if at all. Whereas cabernet and merlot rank as the John and Paul of Bordeaux varieties, and cabernet franc the George, malbec (along with petit verdot) musters only as the Ringo. It supplies structure and color to some great wines, but usually in percentages of less than 5%.

The reason for this modest usage lies in malbec’s tendency towards disease, including shatter or coulure. Shatter causes the failure of grape development. Malbec also suffers frost more than other grapes. A disastrous vintage in 1956 saw some 75% of the French crop killed by frost. This inspired producers to replant with hardier varieties.

Many appellations throughout France allow malbec, almost always in blends. If suffering a decline in popularity now, malbec’s previous status can be testified to by the plethora of local names attached to the grape. Ampelographers, whose thrilling expertise lies in the identification and classification of grapes, have discovered hundreds of names for clones of this grape. Cot may be the original name, but we’ll stick with malbec.

So how did this grape in disfavor become so popular again? It moved to Argentina.

Grape cuttings from France, including malbec, were brought to Argentina in the mid-19^th century. There, malbec produced rich, deeply-colored wines, less tannic than their French cousins. Possibly growing conditions or perhaps the specific clone that came to Argentina explains how the Argentine wine differs from French versions. Whatever, it quickly found an audience in the southern hemisphere.

You would think that it was smooth sailing for malbec, but plantings were pulled up during the 20^th century in favor of jug wine varieties. Happily, when the Argentine wine industry shifted its focus to export quality wines in the 1990s, malbec returned to favor. Malbec plantings in Argentina now cover a hefty 50,000 acres.

In an ironic twist, Argentina’s weak currency helped put malbec and the wines of Argentina over the top in popularity. Importing countries could buy advantageously, which just made the lushly flavored wines even more appealing. Tasty wines at tasty prices: who could argue that? Whether with robust barbecue wines or surprisingly supple wines of great elegance, malbec has earned its newfound popularity.

And speaking of the wines, here are some of the malbecs that we carry:

Catena Zapata (97 Points, The Wine Advocate,12/23/10)
This strikingly lovely wine results from pedigree. Nicolo Catena came to Argentina from Italy at the end of the 19^th century, planting his first malbec in 1902.The winery found success and grew. Nicolo’s grandson Nicolás, while teaching at UC Berkeley, became enamored of California wines. Returning to Argentina, he instigated the use of modern techniques at the winery. The wine possesses astonishing grace and considerable wow factor. This is really a treat, don’t miss it.

Tilia
A straightforward and delicious style of malbec, generously prepared for cookouts. Owned by the Catena family, Tilia produces wines of consummate value. We love the malbec, and are unsurprised that it moves out the door so quickly. Only 10% of the barrels for aging used were new, which means that oak only provides a subtle complexity to the roundly inviting fruit. If you plan to make good on the barbecue season, have plenty of Tilia malbec on hand.

Broquel
Stately and Bordeaux-like, Broquel, from Argentina’s Trapiche winery, marks yet another style of malbec. An excellent concentration of fruit combines with barrel aging to produce a complex and delicious wine. The aging—15 months in new French and American oak barrels—adds layers of interest to keenly rendered fruit. Compared to the Bordeaux or the California cabernet or merlot that you might get at the same price, this is a knockout value. High scores from The Wine Spectator, The Wine Enthusiast, and The Wine Advocate, and highly recommended.